2003 chevy trailblazer change fluid now sliping

2003 chevy trailblazer change fluid now sliping install#
2003 chevy trailblazer change fluid now sliping crack#

I was trying to pay close attention while driving the past two days, I noticed that the slipping happens MOST times it shifts to 3rd. Maybe the shifting to reverse, 1st/2nd gears hurt something? Of course when I go onto another route, it's just like normal driving. There is a lot of shifting going on but mostly shifting to reverse, 1st and 2nd gears. On a side not, I should say I used my tb for work/delivering newspapers. I always believed only engine oil in the engine and transmission fluid in the transmission. I've never really used anything in the transmissions or engine. Speaking of stop slip, would it help at all? The guy at the parts store claims to have been a mechanic in the past (if I had a nickel for every time I was told that by a parts store guy I could afford a brand new transmission lol) he said to use Lucas stop slip. Between good, needs changing, and damaged /bad fluid. The fluid in my TBs transmission looks a little darker (but not by much, just a little) than the middle one he showed in the video. There's a trick to manuvering the pan past that exhaust crossover, but you can do it. You may need the extractor for the pan drain bolt I did. They're all accessible except the one in back passenger side corner (exhaust crossover is right underneath) this is the one I broke off. If you feel one giving a lot of resistance on removal, STOP and reverse direction, along with using some penetrating lube of choice (PB, etc) If you happen to break a bolt, get your extractor kit out. When you go to remove the pan bolts, be careful - the oem zinc-coated bolts catalyze with the aluminum case. Use a good quality synthetic Dexron VI, it may help the slippage from getting worse. I dont think it will fix your issue, but that's a guess on my part. Awesome stuff you get everything you need. No sense giving her a fresh tranny if the engine follows suit a year later. I wouldn't go farther than that w/o doing a compression test to see how much life is left in the engine.

They're interchangeable as well, so you could try swapping them and see if problem follows. There are 2 shift solenoids, both on same side.

Point being, you still have plenty of options All but #5 are reasonable for a weekend mechanic to tackle or relatively cheap to have a trans shop take care of for you.

Frankly, if you plan on keeping the truck for a while I'd look at doing items 2 through 4 all at once. In other words, serious internal damage/wear that can only be corrected with an overhaul. Worn 2-4 band or 3-4 clutches, input drum, etc. Steel balls are used as check valves against the separator plate and after years of slamming against it they can wear the plate to the point that it not longer seals (or in extreme cases they just punch all the way through the plate).ĥ. I installed one a few years ago and many people swear by them.Ĥ. It is supposed to fix/prevent a whole host of issues including a sloppy 2-3 shift.

2003 chevy trailblazer change fluid now sliping install#

You can try a shift kit like Transgo's 'SK 4L60E' Depending on your skill level this can be knocked out in a Saturday afternoon or have a transmission shop install it. Worn valve body letting the fluid leak around valves. 2 of the 3 pistons can be replaced without dropping the valve body IIRC.ģ. They can be replaced or upgraded to aluminum versions.

2003 chevy trailblazer change fluid now sliping crack#

They're plastic and can crack causing leaks leading to slow clutch apply/release. Either way, Youtube for 'vette servo install' to see what you're up against here.Ģ. You might consider upgrading to the 'vette servo' while you're at it which will firm up your 1-2 shift a lot (some people think too much). Leaking 2-4 servo seals (can be replaced and accessible from the outside-no pan drop). You never know…įrom there, there are a couple of other things that are more likely causing the flare:ġ. The solenoid isn’t likely the problem either but they’re cheap and you might as well swap em while you have the pan off. Start with a fluid and filter change (not likely going to fix it, but it sounds like it’s due anyway) and while you’re in there replace the shift solenoids too.

Basically the 2-4 band is releasing too early or the 3-4 clutches are engaging too slowly allowing the engine to “flare” up a few hundred RPM while neither is fully engaged. It’s a fairly common problem on the 4L60E and could be caused by a couple of things. You should address it sooner rather than later though. If it’s just a 2-3 flare then you’re a long way from being toasted.